Bluebells are tolerant of most soil types, and although often seen in full sunlight, they prefer to be in partial shade under deciduous trees or shrubs. In spring they get a good supply of light when there is no foliage on the cover plant, and in summer while they develop their bulbs underground, they are protected by the shade. Do not attempt to cultivate bluebells in deep shade or under dense conifers.

Bluebell seeds have a hard shiny black surface and are spherical in shape much like small shotgun pellets. Plant between August and December, under trees, shrubs or in the shade of a southern wall, either in earth or grass. It is widely believed that before germination they should be frozen for a period or ‘vernalized’ as occurs naturally in winter. This is why they are considered to be threatened by climate change.

Prepare the patch by lightly scarifying it, i.e. to create a shallow broken surface. For small patches do this by raking vigorously with a metal rake; for larger ones use a lawn-scarifier or a tractor-drawn light chain harrow. For best results freeze your seeds before planting by placing them in your freezer for 1-2 weeks. Sprinkle evenly at a rate of 50 seeds per square metre, and lightly rake into your prepared soil. Make sure you know where your patch is, to avoid weeding by mistake. You should get a very high rate of germination if these instructions are followed.

You are strongly advised to dig up and destroy any Spanish or hybrid bluebells near your patch, because the two species readily hybridize through pollination. Although some experts say it is sufficient to dry the unwanted bulbs, we recommend incinerating them. Do not put them in your compost or rubbish – you risk helping to spread them. Indeed you are helping to preserve Native English Bluebells if you persuade your neighbours to do the same.

In the first year, in mid-late March, grass-like shoots should appear in the patch. These are darker green and thinner than normal grass, but may be very difficult to see in a lawn. In the second year, they are similar, but coarser. You will not get blooms until the third or fourth year. Genuine English Bluebell is worth waiting for. Do not mow the patch until the beginning of July or you may wipe out your plantation. Bulbs may be available from garden centres but in our experience, even from reputable firms, these may be badly contaminated by hybridization with non-native Spanish bluebell which is a major threat to the preservation of the English Species.

Good Luck!

First year shoots in 2006 from 2005 seeds